The masculine wardrobe reduced to its purest and most manly essence, without anachronistic rigidities: the Mauro Grifoni Uomo collection for autumn/winter 2016 reaffirms its roots – sartoriality, Italianism, cosmopolitism – in a mix of aplomb and nonchalance. The balance is light, dynamic, contemporary.
Jackets are the true protagonists. They are always light, compact, comfortable: single-breasted styles in heavy fabrics are alternated with single-breasted models with either elbow patches or half-belts; cannetè trims give to deconstructed styles a cozy robe-de-chambre feel. They are worn with slim trousers and perfectly-made shirts, precise as they were pure design objects.
The wardrobe staples are seen anew in volume and details: peacoats have raw hems, duffle coats become almost graphic; the single-breasted trenchcoat is shortened and draws a new silhouette. The biker jacket is made of leather and wool jersey, and has a body-conscious contour; field jackets are made of sheepskin. The same shift of codes characterizes coats: stitches on the back of the collar hint at sartorial workmanship on lean ¾ length styles; liquid volumes give bathrobe coats a certain composed nonchalance.
Knitwear, in pure yarns and precious fibers, is central in the quest for essential masculinity. Tactile textures define heavy crewnecks, cardigans and jackets. Oversized coats have wrapping volumes.
The distilled palette sees deep tones of blue, shades of grey, warm nuances of beige and camel as its main protagonists. Unexpected, seditious dashes of red break the tonal uniformity.
Accessories are authentic: treated leather lace-ups and belts, and then knitted ties and knitted bowties.
A sublimated and a-temporal vision of style.
See the whole collection.
Photos & text Copryright Mauro Grifoni.