Messagerie proposes again the research for the Brit Style of late-Seventies, mock unkempt, reinterpreting it in a sartorial way and changing it into a refined casual style with hunt and riding-themed details.
The collection hangs on to the original project, sartorial DNA which widely attains from the traditional garments characterized by sobriety and rigor, in contrast with eccentric suggestions and references to Mod and Punk culture.
Narrow cuts, flowing, taken down and reconstructed jackets, a very intriguing color palette: those are Messagerie autumn/winter 2016 collection’s references.
The emblematic garment is the narrow double-breasted jacket with military details, double layered, rough garment washed, made of mélange Shetland wool.
Fabrics and Materials
Mated but light Harris tweeds and Shetland wools. Mélange velvet.
Washed cotton-wool over-dyed with vegetal colorings.
Knitted double-face fabrics waxed or resined waterproof cotton.
Wool, silk, tone on tone micro-patterned suits, pinstriped or Price of Wales checked wool faille, cashmere cloths.
Colors
All shades of grey, camel, black, brown, hunt green, mud, blue.
Style
Punk and dandy styles which take inspiration from the English sartorial tradition with military jackets to be worn with cotton trousers, with loose waist and narrow bottom or slim fit in stretchy wool.
Trench replaces parka, double-breasted coats have wide reveres.
All the garments are full of details with accurate inside constructions.
Jackets with measured and small volumes, soft inside structures, “the body has to fill the garment”, the knitted fabrics give comfort.
On the contrary the suits look constructed, the shoulder is big, the sleeve a focal point, recipe for conveying a new dynamic; they recall the night and usually have reveres with grosgrain ribbons.
Thick pullovers in camel hair, double-knitted, heavy outside, light inside; Shetland wool classically constructed with details typical of tailoring, with the aim of giving a mix of “modernity”, particularly on the cardigans which become sartorial jackets.
See the entire collection.
Photos & text Copyright Messagerie.