Warola Fashion + [UK fashion designers]

Griffin Spring/Summer 2016: Core Items

Technology stands at the forefront of this collection which is best shown in the ‘Technical Bearskin’. This design originates from a style we became famed for in the mid 90’s, the Bearskin was a coat that featured side seam zips and when opened up and laid flat replicated the shape of the skin of a bear.

The development for the Technical Bearskin began over four years ago, but it is only now we have the appropriate technology to achieve the garment we wanted. Articulated to fit the body, this jacket is finished with waterproof taped zips along the side seams and underarms, which can be opened as pit zips for ventilation, or fully unzipped to open flat into the Griffin Bearskin shape.

On a technical note, this jacket is kitted out with all the essentials; including 4 front pockets with bonded waterproof zips, a double storm flap on the front with a stand collar and concealed hood, plus the sleeves and back panel are fitted with volume adjusters. This style is available in two Limited Edition colour options; all over black or Finnish Digi Camouflage, both featuring a 3 layer high tech waterproof fabric from Italian mill Limonta.

Although bonding technical man-made fabrics to each other is a technique used by many outdoorwear sports brands, what we have done is bonded a natural fiber cotton/poly mix with a synthetic 3 layer black Limonta fabric making the construction behind this piece really special.

The ‘Dartmouth jacket’ returns this season but with an entirely new look. Featured as part of the tradition meets technology range that combines traditional fabrics and heritage silhouettes, with new technologies and innovative techniques. The Dartmouth is a short jacket designed with front bellow pockets which have been bonded to give a modern take on the style’s vintage counterpart which was traditionally re-enforced with canvas, we have used a high-tec bonding technique which is a great example of the new technology applied to the making of this garment. Another example of this can be found in the design of the pit holes which are used for ventilation, instead of the tradtional eyeletting technique we have laser cut and bonded these holes, the front slant pockets have also received the same treatment, giving a sleek laser cut finish to the front of the jacket. This style is fully reversible and the pitched sleeves have been finished with adjustable reversible cuff tabs, a detail that came from an original reversible 1950’s snow smock. The style is available in two different greyscale colour options, black with white paper-like nylons from Italian mill Limonta and a black wax-like coated nylon with Grey B-Bridge coated Nylon.

The ‘Reversible Pocket Parka’ is a style that has evolved from the reversible Snow Bearskin coat from the Autumn/Winter 10 collection. The design was originally inspired by the U.S. Military Parka, a fantastic shape and Griffin Military favourite. Lengthened and finished with a true parka style fishtail hem, we have worked more volume into this A-line silhouette - even more than last season. This dramatic shaping adds a great swing to the back of the coat and the extra volume drops the shoulders into the uniquely constructed sleeves, featuring double tuck details either side of the elbow and articulated panelling to give volume to the sleeve whilst retaining an accurate fit, plus the cuffs are fully adjustable - featuring an elasticated and button-fastened, reversible adjuster. A lot of time has been spent perfecting the reversibility of this coat, ensuring either side offers a distinct look. As a result we have used the dominating palette of black and white and alternate pocket designs on either side. Working with paper like fabrics from Italian mill Limonta this style is available in luxurious white on one side and classic black on the other.

The ‘Imber’ is a semi-tailored jacket featuring hunting style pockets and two large flap pockets running from the front of the jacket around the side. The collar is styled with a military tab and all seams have been double stitched giving a clean finish on both the outside and inside of the jacket. This season we have stitched into the cotton fabric, leaving short loose threads on the surface giving the jacket a very distinct look. The distinctive plastic spray dyw effect has been applied to this garment, this spray paint technique is applied after the jacket has been manufactured so the back of the fabric and hidden areas, such as underneath the pocket flaps are left undyed. This hand applied technique not only introduces a new touch, it means every jacket is completely unique. The style is also available in plain black and white.

The ‘Technical Softshell’ jacket continues to merge the line between tradition and technology with three new fabrications including Finnish Digi Camouflage, White and Black all mixed with the technical softshell base fabric. This style offers a fitted yet flexibile fit and a clean, sleek finish as all the body panel seams are bonded together instead of stitched. The shape is ergonomically designed for plenty of movement with an off centre waterproof taped zip, featuring engineered sleeves with piped seams in camo. The softshell is fitted with a slanted laser cut chest pocket with a taped zip. The sculpted hood has piping details and features a rounded nose piece for smog protection. Manufactured in Italy to the highest quality - a true example of technology working with tradition.

Trousers & Shorts

The ‘Thai Pant’ was first re-introduced last season after it’s initial development over 10 years ago. Last season, like the first time around, the style was a sell out success for our Japanese stockists. The design is a unique cross between a snow pant and traditional Thai trouser, with a lot of room in the seat and a low slung crotch and gusset. The trouser has a banana seam detail running down the front of the leg for a greater shape and darted at the back to create a sculptured leg. A great silhouette with a lot of volume, this casual pant is available in a range of six colours overdyed on lightweight Italian Cotton fabric. The ‘Technical Thai Pant’ is the sister style and features front and back bonded, waterproof, zips adding a high tech finish to the overall look. The Technical Thai Pant is available in Finnish Digi Camouflage and Swedish Camouflage for the Spring/Summer 11 season. This pant looks fantastic teamed with our new range of sweats or the pocket parka coat.

The ‘USMC trouser’ is a style we have developed for a number of years and after a series of requests from customers and buyers we are reintroducing the pant. First developed from a 1945 boiler suit the USMC trouser is a wide leg pant with a low slung crotch. Fitted with large combat pockets and adjustable tabs at the hem these trousers offer a really comfortable fit. This season the USMC is available in all seasonal colours and two cotton fabric options. As a more commercial alternative the ‘Hanoi Pant’ is the sister style to this pant, designed with a slightly raised crotch and slimmer leg, this style is also available in a range of overdyed cottons.

The ‘Archback trouser’ is an iconic Griffin style and was originally developed from a vintage climbing trouser. With ergonomically designed legs and darted knees, the fit is slimmer this season with a low slung crotch. The archback panel is of course the pant’s most distinctive detail and a feature we can only achieve due to the flexibility of our great Italian factory. Traditionally a coat manufacturer, our factory has the ability to be more creative in the make than a traditional trouser manufacturer by using the finishes and detailing found in outerwear on our trouser range. The Archback style this season is available in the full seasonal range of colours overdyed in a great quality mid-weight cotton fabric.

The ‘Flying Pant’ is a heritage Griffin style developed from original military Para uniforms, the most distinctive styling detail being the darted knee patchs used originally to re-enforce the pant. This season Jeff wanted to rework this design as a track pant, working in a cotton instead of a sweat and adding the ribbed cuffs and a detailed, easticated waistband. The design is available in all 6 seasonal colours, the overdying affect has taken incredibly well to this fabric giving a really rich coverage.

The ’USMC Short’ offers all the great features that its long-legged brother has; combat pockets, low slung crotch and wide loose fit. This season we have developed two lengths, first the standard length finishing at the knee, this design is available in Finnish Digi Camo as well as 6 colour options in Italian cotton. The second design is the adequately named the USMC ‘big’ short which is designed in a longer leg as a three-quarter length that finishes mid-calf. This style is available in a selection of Camouflages including Wetland and Swedish as well as a range of colours from the seasonal colour palette.

Sweats & Jerseys

This season we bring you our most extensive range of sweats and jerseys yet. All produced in Italy, the range includes a selection of silk and cotton jerseys as well as 4 sweats including a ‘Technical crew sweat’ which features waterproof taped front zip pockets and diagonal front panelling. Offering a similar look, the ‘Bomb-Her Jacket’, a zip through track design features laser cut pockets finished with a black bonded trim and available in a selection of contrasting B & W and khaki colour combinations. The Jersey Parka is a new piece for the season made from a double jersey. Along with the the large oversized sleeves and adjustable hem, this high quality Italian cotton is super soft, making it a really easy piece to just throw on. The ‘Hooded Button Sweat’ returns this season, available in the same supersoft double jersey as the parka. Popular details such as the laser cut pocket and contrasting black cotton lining in the hood remain, however the hooded design has been refreshed for a superior fit.

Shirts

We have two new shirt designs for the Spring/Summer season. The first is the cowboy shirt which is a modern take on the traditional country shirt, featuring signature Griffin cotnrast paneling and laser cut pockets. The second design is the bellow shirt, this distinctive design features two gathered bellow pockets on the chest. The shirt is darted offering slim fit and features a traditional button fastening with a slim collar. The design is available in four fabric options including two silks and two cottons in a range of colours.

Manufacturing

Our passion for quality manufaturing keeps growing. For the past 17 years we have been manufacturing our collections in some of Italy’s finest factories, which has enabled us to work very closely with our manufacturer, investing time into innovation and experimentation of emerging garment technologies to fulfil their creative potential. We recognise the future for Griffin lies in Technology and how it can be applied or shaped in the context of clothing. Griffin still firmly supports Italian manufacturing because of the high quality and skills of the factories and fabric mills. Based in the valleys of the Alps, the factory and it’s employees carry a passion that is very Italian - they are great at what they do, and proud of the garments they produce. As well as the Griffin brand the factory also manufactures many luxury brands including Dries Van Notten, Missoni, Dior and Armani.

We still try to work as close to home as possible, maximising on the skills available in the UK to support our local industry. Self sufficiency is an important part of the Griffin family values which Jeff would eventually like to expand out through the collection by rearing our own sheep and eventually produce our own wool. Although price is important our ethical morals and beliefs come first, which is why we are asking our customers to invest in quality clothing.

See more core items.

Photos & text Copyright Griffin.